Opening hours: From 12:30pm to 2:30pm and from 7:30pm to 10:30pm. Closed Satur-day and Sunday.
Le Pantruche (Paris)
Imagine Gabin and Ventura at the bar, and the scene is set! Where exactly? Franck Baranger and Edouard Bobin’s Le Pantruche, the formidable Pigalle bistro that hasn’t changed much over the years, with its footrests and the copper plating along the bar, the reflective mirrors and furniture designed by Gilles Grangier. And if you no longer find grandma’s blanquette de veau or grandpa’s headcheese on the menu, there are dishes like skate with eggplant purée, olives and tandoori-spiced mayo. No fried whiting either, but line-caught hake with homemade gnocchi and seaweed butter. And for the sweets, there’s an addictive chocolate custard with buckwheat ice cream and a coffee granita. With an “up yours” to traditional bistronomie, Le Pantruche has kept one old timey classic: roasted veal rump with petits pois à la française, on the menu next to lamb ravioli with Mimolette and cream of mint. And to wash it all down, place your trust in the owners (Pinot noir from François Baur in Alsace, Pays-d’Oc rosé from the Mas Belles Eaux, €4-7 a glass) and grab a bottle of Alsace from Marcel Deiss or Bellet Clos Saint-Vincent (€25 and €120 a bottle). Set menu options €19.50 (weekday lunch), menu €36. // G.D.